Tilly and the Buttons: Stretch - Freya Turtleneck

I've finally got round to making myself a black turtleneck top, the kind of simple top that I wear a lot. This top has been at the back of my mind for what feels like ages, but seemed to always get overtaken by more spur of the moment projects. After making a pair of cream Lander Pants I needed a top to pair with them, and my black turtleneck plans found themselves at the top of my sewing queue once again

I used, as usual, the Tilly and the Buttons Freya top to make this. It's definitely my most used pattern although I've only used it to make a turtleneck a few times before. The bodice is a really good base pattern to hack but sometimes it's nice to make the pattern as intended! I've previously made a grey stripy Freya top, a blue and white stripy one, a mustard one and more recently a red one with a zip-neck hack. I really like the depth of the turtleneck, though it could easily be made shorter or longer depending on preference. 

Whilst my Lander Pants are what initially convinced me to make a black turtleneck, it's the kind of wardrobe basic that can be worn with so many different trousers. I also have a habit of making short sleeved t-shirts rather than warmer tops that I'm more likely to wear so hopefully this will fill a wardrobe gap too. 

I really wanted to use a cotton jersey to make this top for a couple of reasons, the first being that they tend to be better quality jerseys which don't feel synthetic and are also fully opaque - obviously ideal when using a plain fabric. Cotton jersey is also slightly heavier weight than a lot of other stretch fabrics which work for t-shirts, perfect for making sure a turtleneck holds its shape. I used this plain black jersey fabric from Fabrics For All. I'm so tempted to make some more plain turtlenecks now, I try to push myself to use prints from time to time but the truth is I just prefer wearing plain fabrics! Maybe a bit boring, but when paired with more interesting trousers I think plain tops are perfect.

I spent a while trying to decide what length to make this top. My initial plan was to make it long and wear it tucked in, but after trying on my Landers with a tucked in t-shirt I just didn't like how it looked. I went for the middle-path in the end, making it long enough to cover the top of the waistband of trousers without it being so long that it looks like it needs tucking in. I've just realised that it's actually the same length as my red Freya top, not a conscious decision but clearly it's a length that I like!

[This fabric was given to me by Fabrics for All but all thoughts are my own]

Cream Corduroy True Bias Lander Pants

I've made another pair of Lander Pants - woop! This was definitely the pattern of 2020 for me, not necessarily because I made lots of pairs but because I discovered how much I like it. I actually bought this pattern ages ago (I think it might have been on sale somewhere at some point?) but didn't get round to making it until last January, when I made a black denim pair. I surprised myself with how much I enjoyed wearing them and went on to make a gingham pair in the summer which I also love.

I knew that I wanted to make another pair, this time a pair which was long unlike the other two which are slightly cropped. I hadn't yet decided what kind of fabric to make them out of but my mum and I enjoyed a trip to Higgs & Higgs just before the second lockdown. It's such a nice fabric shop as it's essentially their warehouse which is open to the public, making it amazing to look round. I last went in 2018 (you can see what I bought here) and have wanted to go back since. I didn't buy as much this time, leaving with a grey rib to make my mum a top and cream corduroy to make myself a pair of Lander Pants.

I hadn't planned to make a pair of corduroy Landers but I had been toying with the idea of making some cream trousers. The fabric that I found was so lovely and made my plan fall into place, specifically to make a pair of long Lander Pants. Higgs & Higgs have quite a large selection of corduroy fabrics but there was very little of the colour I liked left on the roll. I've had a look on their website and can't find the fabric that I used, it looks a lot like this one but the two shades of cream in the shop were slightly different. There was only 1.3m left on the roll and they wouldn't be getting any more in as it was ex-designer. I really wasn't convinced I'd be able to get a pair of Lander Pants out of 1.3m if they were long and included the pockets, but after hesitating over the other shade of cream and also a tan colour I decided to try and make it fit. If there wasn't enough fabric, I'd make a pair of shorts instead.

But there was enough fabric! It was very, very just but I managed to squeeze all the pattern pieces on and even got pockets cut out too. There wasn't quite enough to make them full length so for the hem I literally pieced the scraps together to make a 2" deep strip that I then sewed around the bottom and turned up. I'm so pleased I went with the fabric I wanted as the colour is just right.

One of the things I really like about the shade of cream is how well it goes with the brass buttons. These are the same buttons that I used on my black Lander Pants, they're hammer in jeans buttons that I think complete the trousers perfectly. I considered using a tan coloured topstitch thread to match the buttons, but went for a matching cream in the end. I'm not displeased with the matching topstitching but I think a subtle contrast could have looked nice.

I was expecting to have to leave off the back pockets due to fabric shortage but just had enough fabric to add them in the end. I purposely chose to leave off the back pockets on my black and gingham Landers as I just didn't like the square look, but somehow felt like they were needed on the cream corduroy. I'm not sure why I felt like that, but I think they look nice!

In the interest of adding extra details, my favourite thing to do on makes, I added a leather patch to the waistband. I'm so pleased with it and definitely want to buy some more to add to future jeans. I got a pack of 3 when I went to Stoff & Still, used one on my mum's bag and one on these Landers leaving me the last one to add to my next pair of jeans. It's a lovely way of making them feel more professional too. 

The main reason that I love the True Bias Lander Pants is because the pattern fits me so well. I still stand by that but this pair sadly doesn't fit quite as well as my other two pairs. The issue this time is that they're just a bit big around the waist causing them to fall down slightly which I find really annoying. I made the same adjustments of taking them in at the side seams as I always do, so I think that the problem with these is that the fabric has stretched out slightly. The gingham Landers fit me perfectly thanks to the fact that they're made from a lightweight fabric with absolutely no stretch. Whilst the corduroy isn't really very stretchy, it does have a bit of stretch in it which is why they've turned out a little big. It's not a massive problem but it's a bit of a shame.

I really love the details on this pattern, especially the front pockets which I was really keen to add so luckily there was enough fabric. What I like about these pockets is that fact that they're different to most jeans pockets making the finished make more interesting.

I haven't been able to wear these out yet but I'm hoping to do so soon as I really like them and need to get used to wearing what is a slightly different style for me. When I first made the Lander Pants I really didn't want a pair of long wide-legged trousers. That was less than a year ago so it just goes to show how much taste changes!

Top 5 Favourite Makes of 2020

With all the strange events that this year has brought, a positive has come in the form of more sewing time. Whilst I can't say that spending six months stuck at home is something that I'd like to repeat, it did give me a lot of sewing time! Some of the projects that I've made this year are things that I know I'll love and wear for years to come. Here are 5 favourite makes, although narrowing it down was a challenge!

I'm kind of cheating to start with because this is technically two makes, but I couldn't choose between my Lander Pants! Having had this pattern for a while, I finally made a pair at the start of 2020 and it's my new favourite pattern, definitely the best-fitting trouser pattern that I've ever used. The gingham Lander Pants pictured above turned out so well and I really love them.

I wanted to include my black Landers too because I've worn them so much this year. They're not quite as exciting as the gingham ones but I love the classic look of them and really enjoy wearing them. I haven't been able to wear my gingham ones quite as much as I made them towards the end of summer but I'm looking forward to wearing those next year.

This zip-neck top is special as it's made from one of my fabrics from Tokyo. I'm proud of how well this top turned out, the zip especially. It also feels very me, and alongside this jumper I'm pleased to have conquered zip-necks!

I wanted to include this top too as, like the red one, it feels very me. This top is a copy of a navy one that I made last year and I love how it turned out. The fabric is also really lovely and makes the top what it is.

I'm not much of a dress person but I really wanted to make myself a summer dress to wear this year. After watching the Sewing Bee I decided to make this black floral Shelby Dress. I'm so happy with how it looks and loved wearing it during the summer.

Finally, I had to include my black joggers because that's what I've really been wearing in 2020! Lockdown made me realise that I needed another pair of joggers and I enjoy wearing these so much. I especially like the cuff which I'd like to add onto another pair too.

I love all of these makes and also a lot of the others that I haven't added to this list. Next year I'd like to make even more pairs of trousers, definitely some more joggers and maybe even more Landers! If you're interested, here were my top 5 favourite makes in 2019, 2018 and 2017.

As always thank you for following along with my sewing this year, see you in 2021!

2020 Sew Down

Another year of sewing, another round-up of makes! This year more than ever sewing has provided a wonderful escape in light of current events and times of stress. I've enjoyed every project and have managed to make some clothes that I really love.

Proudest make: I've only ever included dressmaking projects in this category so far but this year my favourite make has been my English Paper Piecing quilt. I'm so proud of it and I love both the process of making it and also how it looks. It's not finished yet, but you can find my most recent update here and previous updates here, here and here.

Proudest make: In terms of dressmaking, my proudest make this year is probably my sherpa jacket. Because I made it right at the start of the year I'd forgotten that it was a 2020 make, I've worn it so much this year and I really love it. It looks so professional, I'm so proud of the lining and details like the zip.

Most worn make: It's hard to know which make from this year I've actually worn the most but my black joggers are definitely one of them. Despite making them towards the end of the year I have worn them so much.

Least worn make: I realised when choosing a make for this category that I've actually been really good at sewing items of clothing that I've worn a lot this year. I haven't really worn this top though, purely because the fabric isn't very 'me'. 

Most unexpected make: This has got to be making scrubs! Never did I expect to sew a pair of scrubs, but covid had other ideas. My mum joked the other day that this is by far her most worn item of clothing that I've ever made her! I did also make her another scrub top out of a lovely chambray fabric once we were able to go out and buy fabric again, although I haven't blogged that one.

Last year's favourite: Definitely my gingham Anima Pants, I love these so much and have worn them loads. Other makes from the past that I've worn lots this year include my grey joggers, this linden and this t-shirt.

Favourite make for others: I finally made my auntie an item of clothing this year and I'm so proud of it.   I really focused on the details of this blouse and I think she really likes it too. 

Most used pattern: I've made 3 pairs of Lander Pants this year - my black denim ones, gingham ones and a cream needlecord pair that I'm currently making. It's definitely been my favourite pattern of 2020 and I'm looking forward to using it again next year.

Favourite fabric shop: This is obviously a tricky category to answer this year as I haven't been able to visit a lot of fabric shops! I wanted to include an online fabric shop instead that I've enjoyed working with this year - my viscose skirt and black hoodie made with fabrics from Fabrics For All are some of my favourite makes this year.

Favourite fabric: I've loved making things from viscose fabric this year, especially my Shelby Dress. This black floral viscose fabric was exactly what I had in mind and I love how it looks.

Most exciting sewing event: This year I started selling hand-decorated sewing boxes on Etsy! It's been such a fun venture and I have loved making these and sending them off. You can find them here.

Pink Zip-neck Jumper

I'm very excited to write about this make because I love it so, so much! It's basically the jumper that I've had on my mind for at least two years now, and I've finally managed to make a version that's just right. 

If this jumper looks familiar, it's because it kind of is. Back at the start of this year I made myself this jumper out of the same pink fabric. I liked the style of the jumper but I just didn't really like the end result, the main reason being that the zip insertion looked a bit strange. I tried wearing that top a few times but I just wasn't really happy with it, so it stayed in my wardrobe. A few weeks ago, I decided that as I wasn't wearing the top at all I might as well pick it apart and try and remake it. I wasn't sure if I'd be able to make it any better, but I thought it was worth a try.

I'm so happy I gave it another go because this version turned out so well! Luckily I had a bit of fabric leftover which, combined with the pieces I got from unpicking the old jumper, was just enough to remake it. Because I had less fabric to work with I had to change the style a bit, so this jumper isn't as loose as the other one but I definitely prefer this look. The main thing that I knew had to change was the neck because that's what was bothering me about the first jumper. So for this one, the zip is inserted into a turtleneck style top which worked so much better than the collar of the other one. I thought this would be a better technique after the success of my zip-neck Freya top, and it is definitely lying more flat.

After the neck, I didn't really have enough fabric to make any major changes. In changing from a normal shoulder to a raglan sleeve top I ended up using a lot of fabric on the sleeves and was slightly worried there wouldn't be enough. To get around this I added in a seam halfway down the sleeve. I then chose to replicate the added seam effect by putting in another seam down the centre of the lower half of the sleeve - I cannot emphasise enough how much I love this detail! The gathered sleeves on the first top were a really nice feature so I'm glad I didn't have to lose the statement sleeves. Topstitched seams also show up so well with this fabric.

My main focus on this top was the neckline, and I'm very pleased with how smoothly the zip went it. I tend to wear this top with the zip partially undone but it looks really nice done up too for a cosier feel. This fabric so soft and cosy, like the fabric for this jumper it's a fleece-backed sweatshirt which is perfect for this time of year. 

I'm so happy with this make, I feel like it's a style I've been wanting to create for ages and now that I've finally cracked it I can make lots more. I'd definitely like to make a plain black version with a contrast zip. To finish off this jumper I added a hem band, I had just enough fabric left and I think it's the perfect finish. Once again I was able to add topstitching to tie it all together.

Handmade Forest Green Jumper

I've liked the colour forest green for so long that it seems crazy to me that this is the first item of clothing that I own in that colour. It wasn't hard choosing this fabric from the Minerva website as it's exactly the colour that I had in mind and I love cotton jersey. Deciding what to make out of the fabric once it arrived proved to be a much harder decision as I think it would have looked good as pretty much any style of top.

In the end, I decided to make a jumper - it's such a great item of loungewear. Because it's new it feels more put together than a hoodie, but it's also really comfy. I'm living in joggers at the moment but I think it will look really nice worn with jeans too in the autumn/winter months. I made the jumper really oversized with dropped shoulders, adding to the comfort. Cotton jersey isn't really typical for jumpers so I added cuffs to make it look less like a top, a hem-band would also reinforce this although I just left the hem raw. I like how the raw hem rolls up and it's obviously a really quick and easy finish.

To finish off the top, I added an Eiffel Tower patch to it. I thought the plain top needed a little something extra and this was the perfect addition. You may recognise the patch from a top that I made a few years ago - this simple grey t-shirt. I wore that top so much and was really disappointed when it no longer fit, but I'm glad that I got to reuse the patch. I bought it on my first trip to Frou-Frou in Paris.

You can head over to my profile on the new Minerva website to read more

Handmade Boxy Placket Collar Jumper

 

My goal when it comes to making clothes is always to make something wearable. For me, that's pieces like joggers, trousers, t-shirts and jumpers. Wearable doesn't have to mean boring though, and I am a big fan of making basic garments with a twist. This jumper is the perfect combination of something easy to wear, but with interesting design details that made sewing it enjoyable.

I love sewing with stretch fabrics and I wear plain fabrics the most, so this grey French Terry from Bobbins and Buttons was the perfect fabric! I own quite a few grey jumpers already but they are definitely my most worn items of clothing, especially at this time of year. I know from personal experience that sewing t-shirts and dresses in the Autumn and Winter is not fun because they can't be worn for ages, so my sewing at this time of year tends to gravitate quite heavily towards jumpers! For this project, I was able to create something that I've had in my mind for a while. I really like the look of jumpers with placket collars and I wanted to try and make one, it's a style that I can see myself wearing a lot. 

The jumper definitely turned out quite oversized and boxy, but it was the look I was going for and I think the proportions work well together. It also makes it really comfy to wear! The sleeves are wide at the top but taper down to the cuff so they don't get in the way. Although I made my jumper cropped and boxy you could definitely add a placket collar to a more fitted jumper and I've recently made a placket t-shirt.

In order to add a placket collar like this one onto an existing jumper pattern, you'd need to create a collar that fits around the circumference of the neckline. Alternatively, you could keep the neckband and just add in a placket. I've made several placket tops (I'm not sure why, I just really like them!) and have found this tutorial to be really helpful. With this jumper, I veered off track slightly and was worried the placket had gone completely wrong but the next day was able to come back and rectify it. A lighter-weight knit like a French Terry is a good fabric to use when sewing details like a placket as it's fairly forgiving and not too bulky.

As a last-minute decision, I decided to add some jazzy cuffs! I bought this Albstoffe cuff ribbing so long ago and never seemed to find the right project for it. I wasn't sure if I should add it this jumper in case it limited what I could wear it with, but I'm so pleased I did! I love the pop of colour and it makes this jumper feel so much more special. Cuffing fabrics are quite hard to come by, but Bobbins and Buttons have two lovely navy versions here and here which I really like.

I'm really pleased with how this jumper turned out, it definitely fits the vision I had in mind. I also love making things that I know I'll get a lot of wear out of. The combination of this jumper with the black joggers I made recently is the ultimate comfy loungewear outfit!