Zip-Neck Tilly and the Buttons Freya Top

There is something so wonderful when a make turns out exactly as planned and I'm thrilled with my new top. I've had this planned for a really long time but wanted to wait for the right moment to make it. The main downside to planning something for so long is the self-imposed pressure to get it right, so I took my time with the sewing. I wanted it to look shop bought and I think it really does but with all the bonuses of being handmade - being able to decide the fit, colour, fabric etc. I just love it!

This was a special project for me because it was made with one of my beloved Tomato fabrics from Tokyo. I've been trying to use the fabrics on things that I will wear a lot and really love, they're just all so gorgeous and I can't buy anymore of them. Those goals have certainly been achieved with my checked Anima Pants and grey Linden Jumper which I wear literally all the time. The thing is, even though I waited a while before using this fabric my plan for it hasn't changed since I bought it. As soon as I saw the circle zip-pull zips I knew I wanted to make a top like this and of course the shop also had the perfect fabric. The fabric in question is a fairly heavy weight rib in this stunning orange/red colour. It's quite a bright but I love it and it goes so well with the grey and white zip. I didn't need to interface the fabric as it was heavy enough to sew the zip straight in. The zip did go in fairly seamlessly but I took my time over it and definitely woudn't like to sew a zip into a light weight jersey. The scariest bit is having to cut down the centre front seam - I was so worried I'd cut too far!

I think I mentioned in my post about my zip-neck jumper that I was planning another top with a zip and this one has been in the plans long before I bought the fabric for the pink jumper. Out of all the styles of zip tops I've seen on the highstreet, the fitted turtleneck with a zip that goes partly down is my absolute favourite. I was initially worried about recreating it because an open zip is just so difficult to get lying flat but decided to risk it anyway. The risk really paid off and I'm thrilled with the insertion of the zip, it's hardly bumpy at all at the end and lies completely flat unlike the other jumper. It's great to have been able to build on that skill and means that I can make many more of these tops (because of course I want to make more!). It helps that this zip from Tomato is just gorgeous, I wish I had bought more as I'm not sure they sell the same thing here.

Like I said there are quite a few variations of the same thing avaliable but I've always liked fitted long sleeved tops (I love wearing this one) and as a bonus I thought it would be perfect for hacking the Tilly and the Buttons Freya top. I often use the Freya top pattern as a base for simple t-shirts but usually leave off the neckband. However, for this hack I stayed much closer to the original pattern. In order to add in the zip, I cut the front bodice at a slight angle on the fabric so that the 'place on fold' edge wasn't lying up with the fold at the top of the pattern. This left a tiny triangle of extra fabric going from about 1cm extra at the top end of the centre front to nothing by the hem. I'm not sure if that's really very clear (sorry if not!) but it essentially gave me more fabric at the top for the seam allowance of the zip without making the front bodice wider at the bottom. I also added about 1cm to the neckband but that wasn't really necessary considering how stretchy the rib fabric is.

The zip insertion obviously changed my construction of the neckband and luckily it all went really smoothly, although there were a couple of moments where I held my breath! I was initially going to topstitch around the zip and also topstitch the neckband down but decided against it as it would have forced the fabric to sit in a particular way. I'm glad I didn't, it looks less strict without the topstitching.

When it came to hemming the top I simply cut along the bottom with my rotary cutter. It gave it a nice smooth edge and as the rib shouldn't fray it worked perfefctly. In general I don't like leaving things unhemmed as the thought of fraying always nags at me, but I tested a few scraps and it seemed to be fine. I tend to finish jersey makes with a lettuce hem but didn't want to take the attention away for the zip on this top. Turning up the fabric and hemming also wouldn't have worked as the rib is too heavy weight and there would have been an uncomfortable-looking bulge where the hem was. With a loud colour and fairly loud design feature, the simple clean finish means there isn't too much going on.

Ah isn't it so lovely to have a new make! I feel like this ticks all the boxes: new skill, a design I love and a special fabric.