Contrast Topstitching Grainline Studio Moss Skirt

This skirt has been destined to have been made for a very long time now. I've been coveting this style of mini-skirt with contrast topstitching for a while and always had plans to make one, the plan just took a little longer to become reality than anticipated!

Contrast topstiching has always been a detail that I love. In general, I always try to make a feature out of neat topstitching by adding parallel rows and I like the subtle effect of this when done in a matching thread. But plain fabrics such as denim and chamray provide the perfect opportunity to experiment a bit more with contrast colours, my most obvious project that uses this being my Rosa shirtdress with contrast gold topstitching. 

I have to say, topstitching on this heavyweight denim was a lot harder than doing so on a chambray! There are definitely a few wobly stitches on this skirt and my instinct is to immediately unpick these, but I've tried to let a few parts slide as I don't think they're really that noticable to anyone other than myself (exept for the bit at the bottom of the fly! I'm kicking myself for that!). 

A combination of using a heavyweight fabric and what is becomming a rather tired sewing machine meant that I did have a few struggles and broken needles when topstiching, particularly over the thick pockets. I'd really recommend these topstitching tips from Tilly and the Buttons, I always keep them in mind and changing the thread tension especially really helps.

To recreate the skirt I had in mind, I used the Grainline Studio Moss Skirt as my base. It's a pattern I've made multiple times, and other than my first version they have all been adapted to be high-waisted. This skirt is actually pretty similar to the skirt that I made last year in terms of the trapezium pockets (which I love!) but a change in fabric and colour makes it feel completely different. 

Apparently I make a Moss skirt a year: classic denim in 2018, a green needlcord version in 2019 and now this one for 2020! My first version was made in 2016 but is no longer worn, partly because the low waist annoys me.

I've talked about this 'hack' in the past but my way of making the Moss skirt high waisted is to make it longer, wear the waistband on my waist and then take a wedge of fabric out of the centre back seam. I need to make this adjustment for most items of clothing anyway but it's particualy important for this as the pattern isn't designed to be worn this way. The frustrating thing for me when it comes to fitting trousers/skirts is that I have a quite a big difference between my hips and waist measurements. This basically means that I can't fully fit something around my waist or I wouldn't actually be able to get it on and off! The other frustrating thing with this skirt is that I think I may have over-fitted it, the back isn't quite lying flat and to be honest I think it would have been better if I hadn't taken so much fabric out. But again, it isn't that noticable when it's being worn and definitely won't keep me from wearing it.

The back waistband just wasn't looking great once I finished it. It was an absolute nightmare to topstitch and I just wasn't quite happy with it. To compensate I added two belt loops to the centre back, I won't be using them for a belt but they cover up the bad bits and draw attention away from the fitting issue at the back. I think they look quite nice too! 

Even though I knew exactly what I wanted to make once I started, this project was pretty spur of the moment. I was sorting through some fabric when I found the leftovers of the black denim used on my Lander Pants. There was just just just enough left over to make a skirt!

Like with the Landers I added a Kylie and the Machine 'You can't buy this' label into the side seam which is the perfect final touch.