Wednesday 30 March 2022

Handmade Square-neck Ribbed Top


I'm always on the search for rib fabrics to use to make t-shirts and tops. Ribs are often heavier in weight than cotton jerseys, meaning that they provide better structure and can feel nicer in quality. A lot of rib fabrics tend to come in simple colours ie black, white, grey to create neckbands and cuffs, whilst I prefer making the entire garment out of rib and so look for something a bit more intersting. This rib from Minerva fit my brief perfectly, providing not only a pretty dusky pink colour but flecks of gold that make it less ubiquitous.


This top is a direct copy of a RTW one that I own, and I am so pleased with how I managed to translate the design. Like I always do when it comes to copying garments, I used a basic t-shirt pattern and altered the most important details. For this top, that was the neckline and a curved hem. I then added three strips of fabric to the front bodice to provide faux-panelling. The centre strip is sewn on in a straight line, whilst the two on the side begin straight and curve off into the armhole.


Adding strips of fabric is a much simpler way of imitating a corset-like style. It's also much more comfortable because the top is made out of jersey. After cutting out my pattern pieces, I cut three strips of fabric which were 1" wide, pressed in 1/4" on each side, and pinned them to the front bodice. The middle strip was pretty easy to place as it just goes down the centre front, but the side ones took a bit of careful positioning, pinning and altering to get the shape right. 


I actually ended up sewing the neckline of this top twice. The first time, I tried to finish it by attaching bias binding which I topstitched down on the right side of the top. I think this would have worked in a different fabric, but with a stretch fabric and such a thin neckband the stitching just looked messy. Rather than cutting a wider neckband, I ended up sewing this one to the right side before hand sewing it down on the inside of the top. It was definitely worth taking the extra time over, it provides a neat finish to the neckline and lies nice and flat.


The curved hem is quite a small detail  but one which I think makes a big difference. It isn't a drastic curve, but gently echoes the curve of the panelling which is a nice detail. The fabric and design of this top turn an otherwise very simple t-shirt into something a bit more interesting. It's a garment which should be able to transition between everyday wear and the somewhat ambiguous 'smart casual'!

[This fabric was given to me by Minerva in exchange for a blog post]